I was fortunate to be Phil’s guest at the lastest blind tasting he held for the group. Phil had smoked some chuck for dinner, providing a savory reminder of what was to come after the blind tasting. First up, we sampled the 2017 Chateau L’Ermitage, Auzan, Costieres de Nimes. It is a good wine to drink this year and a reminder that I do not drink enough Rhone-style white wines.
I do not drink enough red Burgundy to have even remotely narrowed in on the six blind wines we tasted. Beyond the particularly tasty bottles, Domaine Yvon Clerget and Domaine Duroche represent wines made by a young generation. Thibaud Clerget produced his first wines in 2015 and Pierre Duroche took over his father’s estate in 2005. It is quite something then, that the 2015 Domaine Y. Clerget, Volnay 1er Cru Carelle sous la Chapelle is in the best spot for a wine to drink now or cellar for the future. It is tasty from the first pour but develops over an evening. I will admit the ripeness of the 2016 Domaine Duroche, Gevrey-Chambertin Champ had me guessing New Zealand Pinot Noir! Despite that grave error, this is satisfying being the most fruited, forward wine we tasted. The 2015 Domaine Duroche, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux is another fine wine for drinking now. There is maturity already reflected in palate with additional complexity from the earth. It is the most expensive wine of the evening yet also the most attractive. I found these three wines the most enjoyable that evening. I guess that the others did as well for these bottles were completely finished. For those with patience, do not overlook the 2015 Domaine Y. Clerget, Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens. It has an impressive future ahead.
With dinner we drank a bottle of 2004 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja. While not the most impressive wine, it was consumed quickly and I suspect it would benefit from further decanting. I typically like Rabaja very much. The final wine of the night is a library release that was recorked in 2018. At 27 years of age the 1992 Weingut Wegeler, Vintage Collection, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Mosel is a modest, fully mature wine. It is quite lively on the tongue which keeps it refreshing.
Starter
2017 Chateau L’Ermitage, Auzan, Costieres de Nimes
Imported by Terrison Wines. This wine is a blend of 60% Roussanne, 20% Grenache Blanc, and 20% Viognier. Aromas of flowers and nuts. Modest in body and light in weight. Quite floral in flavor with tree fruits, stones, and a very floral finish. A solid wine to drink once the spring weather arrives. *** Now – 2021.
Burgundy
1 – 2015 Domaine Y. Clerget, Volnay – $59
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. Alcohol 13.5%. A young color with a touch of VA on the nose. The young flavors in the mouth are tart with ripe fruit soon developing. Some concentration, slightly chewy, young structure, and tart acidity. Becomes tighter with air. **(*) Now – 2024.
2 – 2015 Domaine Y. Clerget, Volnay 1er Cru Carelle sous la Chapelle – $69
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. Alcohol 13.5%. A young color with violet. A touch more aromatic. In the mouth are expansive flavors of blue and black fruit supported by fine and drying tannins. It picks up more weight in the finish. Clearly more serious than #1. This remains the easiest drinking of the six blind wines, taking on hints of spice and some lifted, ripeness in the finish. ***(*) Now – 2029.
3 – 2015 Domaine Y. Clerget, Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens – $119
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. Alcohol 13%. Tart, young, and dry structured yet clearly possess power for the flavors to develop. Younger in profile than #2, it has a big future ahead. Though primary and grapey with a mineral, black fruited finish, the fine almost bitter tannins make it trying to drink at this point. It is best left in the cellar for several more years. **(**) 2022-2037.
4 – 2016 Domaine Duroche, Gevrey-Chambertin – $59
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. Aromas of sulphur never blow off but there is some grapiness. In the mouth it tastes like a natural wine with cranberry fruit, crunch acidity, and light finish. In no way like the other wines so must be off. Not Rated.
5 – 2016 Domaine Duroche, Gevrey-Chambertin Champ – $69
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. A lovely nose. Very ripe and sweet fruit with just enough acidity and supportive structured. Perhaps a hint of heat in the end. It develops citrus notes. Structured. Tart acidity. *** Now – 2024.
6 – 2015 Domaine Duroche, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux – $129
Imported by MacArthur Liquors. Kirsch on the nose. A hint of maturity in the mouth make this the most drinkable of the Duroche. A ripe core of fruit, cherries, and a hint of earth make this a beautiful wine. **** Now – 2024.
Dinner Wines
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja
Imported by Vias Imports. Alcohol 14%. Starting to mellow, maturing but focused with ripeness and grip to support future life. Balanced. Served immediately from a decanter, it was consumed quickly. ***(*) Now – 2034.
1992 Weingut Wegeler, Vintage Collection, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Mosel
Imported by Comete Wines. Alcohol 8%. A little spritz on the tongue then fully mature flavors are evident. Dense lemon with modest ripe yellow fruit are fresh but the finish is short. A slightest hint of tea. *** Now but will last.
